Everyone knows me as a Jane Austen girl. I am a fan of Northanger Abbey – the greatest gothic horrid novel that ever haunted the overactive minds of dorky Catherine Morlands like me – and of Emma, of course. But I must also mention that I am an Edith Wharton girl, and a Washington Irving girl. Yes, I love American authors, too. And last October, I was over the moon to finally visit the hallowed location of the greatest American tale ever committed to paper – The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.
Yes, I visited the Hudson River Valley and the picturesque and magical village of Sleepy Hollow, New York. My good friend Leigh Anna and I toured the story’s eponymous locale as well as Tarrytown, Irvington, and beyond, exploring Washington Irving’s old stomping grounds.
Lots more beyond the jump…
“Certain it is, the place still continues under the sway of some witching power, that holds a spell over the minds of the good people, causing them to walk in a continual reverie. They are given to all kinds of marvellous beliefs, are subject to trances and visions, and frequently see strange sights, and hear music and voices in the air…”
We caught glimpses of the headless horseman (he’s hard to miss, no matter what the time of year), schoolmaster Ichabod Crane, and a variety of ghosts and goblins and other citizens of Halloween. But we also enjoyed beautiful scenery and true historical locales. While there’s probably no real truth to the legends and folklore upon which Washington Irving based his most famous story, these places are still thick with his inspirations. Philipsburg Manor, for example, was likely his model for Baltus Van Tassel’s farming estate, while the Old Dutch burying ground (near the Pocantico River), is the eternal resting place of the actual people who influenced his characterizations.
We also wanted to have a good old-fashioned cemetery picnic, which we did at Ossining’s Sparta Cemetery (the oldest organized burying ground in the area). For much of the 19th century, cemeteries served as public green spaces in American communities until public parks became more plentiful around the turn of the 20th century. Cemetery picnics were a common family activity!
We also visited Washington Irving’s home, Sunnyside, in Irvington, New York. It’s a beautiful, fanciful house with a gorgeous view of the Hudson River. He bought the property in 1835, then expanded the existing cottage to suit his own tastes. The house combines Dutch colonial, Italianate, and gothic revival design elements, which I found tasteful and charming. It’s thought that he was inspired by his travels in Europe while serving as a U.S. diplomat in Spain.
We also made sure to visit the Lyndhurst Mansion, a Gothic Revival estate most recently owned (in its pre-museum days) by the Jay Gould family. It’s a beautiful house with gorgeous grounds, known for its seasonal decor and fun themed events. Dark Shadows fans (that’s me!) will also recognize it as the Collinwood estate in the movies House of Dark Shadows (1970) and Night of Dark Shadows (1971).
Our Halloween adventure continued with visits to the fabulous Jack O’ Lantern Blaze at Van Cordlandt Manor in Croton-on-Hudson and a visit to the famous Horsefeathers, a festive restaurant and Bar in Tarrytown. The holiday decorations are always on point here, and the food is delicious!
The Jack O’ Lantern Blaze was majorly impressive, featuring thousands of carved pumpkins creating tableau after tableau of themed, animated, and show-lit scenes from local culture and history.
If you’re into art and beautiful scenery, a visit to the Rockefeller estate museum – Kykuit – is a must! This doesn’t have anything to do with Halloween, but it is a beautiful place to watch the seasons change. We toured the house and much of the grounds. I had NO idea that a hefty portion of Governor Nelson Rockefeller’s modern art collection remained at the estate. Many sculptures dot the grounds, while everything from Alexander Calder mobiles to the Andy Warhol portraits of Governor and Happy Rockefeller reside in the “basement” art gallery.
Inside the house, your guide will point out the can of Campbell’s soup that’s been propping up the TV in the study since the 1970s. No, it’s not a part of the art collection, but it’s quirky Rockefeller family lore and it amused me. You can also see Nelson Rockefeller’s vice presidential china in the butler’s pantry (he was Gerald Ford’s Veep and he wanted everybody to know it).
It was a wonderful trip and I can’t wait to return! Hope you all had a wonderful Halloween!